Sandalwood: an olfactory treasure!
Sandalwood is a precious ingredient with a special place in the world of perfumery. Its unique properties, rich history and multiple olfactory facets make it an essential woody ingredient in perfume compositions.
A history that goes back 4,000 years!
Sandalwood comes from the Santalum album tree, which grows mainly in India, but also in Australia, Indonesia and other tropical regions. Used for over 4,000 years in spiritual, medicinal and cosmetic rituals, sandalwood is deeply rooted in Eastern cultures. In India, it is considered sacred, symbolising purification and eternity. Its use in temples for incense or in funeral ceremonies reflects its spiritual value.
Over the centuries, sandalwood was exported to the West, where it quickly found its way into cosmetics and, of course, perfumery. Its popularity soared in the 19th century, when European perfumers discovered its rich aromatic properties. This wood has become a leading ingredient in oriental creations, as well as in modern compositions.
The olfactory miracle of Sandalwood ...
Sandalwood is often described as a warm, creamy, milky fragrance, with woody, sweet and slightly spicy notes. It offers a unique depth, combining sensuality and serenity.
What sets it apart from other woody essences is its velvety aspect and its ability to round out and harmonise other, more aggressive notes in a composition.
Its olfactory profile can vary depending on where it comes from. Indian sandalwood, which is particularly popular, is richer and creamier than sandalwood from certain other regions, while Australian sandalwood tends to be a little drier and less sweet.
Sandalwood in Fragrance compositions
Sandalwood is an extremely versatile ingredient in perfumery, used in feminine, masculine and unisex creations. It can be an essential base note, adding warmth and longevity to a fragrance.
In 'oriental' compositions, it is often combined with notes of vanilla, amber or spices such as cinnamon, creating opulent, sensual fragrances. It also plays a key role in woody fragrances, where it adds a softer, more harmonious touch than drier woods such as cedar or vetiver.
Many of the great perfume houses have made sandalwood a central ingredient in their creations. Whether to add a creamy dimension to a floral fragrance or to reinforce a woody composition, sandalwood is a treasure trove for creating balanced, sophisticated fragrances!
In our HAROLD & MAUDE fragrance compositions, Sandalwood is very present, given the deep, sensual character we like to bring to our base notes.
This is particularly true of our DELIGHTFULLY SENSUAL fragrance combined with vetiver and patchouli, in the DÉLICIEUSEMENT TENDRE fragrance with cedar and musk, and also in our DIVINELY AUDACIOUS fragrance whose sandalwood is surrounded by Agarwood and Gayac wood.
The Environmental Impact and Sustainability of Sandalwood:
The success of sandalwood has led to intensive exploitation, particularly in India, where the Santalum album tree is now protected due to over-exploitation. Illegal extraction, combined with growing demand, has made this tree an increasingly rare and precious resource. In response, the fragrance industry has turned to more sustainable sources of sandalwood, such as Australia, where ecologically responsible plantations have been developed.
In addition, some perfume laboratories are working on synthetic alternatives to natural sandalwood, which will offer a more environmentally-friendly solution.
The growing scarcity of sandalwood calls for reflection on its sustainable use, in order to preserve this treasure for future generations.
Article written by Christian Paindavoine, Founder of La Maison HAROLD & MAUDE
Copyright HAROLD & MAUDE 2024
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